HELEN LEUDAR DISCOVERS A WORLD OF DIVING JUST BELOW THE WATERLINE IN PUERTO PRINCESA
Mention Palawan, and images of vast tracks of tropical forests, mountains, caves, beaches and marine wilderness come to mind. Home to two World Heritage sites – the Subterranean River National Park and Tubbataha Reef National Marine Park, the long skinny stretch of Palawan is the largest of over 1,700 islands that make up the archipelago of the same name.
It consists of over 11,000sq km of coral reefs, 2,000km of coastline and has more than 2,000 species of fish. Perched on the southwestern edge of the Philippines, it is closer to Borneo than the rest of the country. Hardly surprising, then, that they call it The Last Frontier.
Tourism is low-key, which is its very appeal, but with its capital, Puerto Princesa, located only an hour’s flight from Manila (though 23 hours by boat), this beach town enjoys the best of both worlds.
There is one main street. There are no McDonalds, no Starbucks, no taxis, not even a mall. Most things are within walking distance or a short tricycle ride away. But one thing you will find in Palawan is fish – and lots of them. The Philippines supplies around 80 per cent of the world’s aquariums, so there is a massive diversity of fish, and Palawan itself provides a whopping 60 per cent of Manila’s fresh fish supply – with enough left over to keep Puerto’s diving industry happy.
UNDISCOVERED LOCATION
Often overlooked in favor of the dramatic limestone cliffs of El Nido in the north or the wreck-diving in Coron, Puerto Princesa remains relatively undiscovered. Serviced by only three small dive companies, underwater exploration in this area is very informal, with dive-masters joining each other’s trips if it makes sense to use the same boat.
Convenience is another attractive factor. Everything is close by and dive sites are so accessible (the closest just a few minutes offshore) that a surface interval between dives can be spent lying on the beach, a godsend for those who are prone to bouts of seasickness.
One of the best sites for macro enthusiasts is The Lighthouse, one of Puerto’s most popular dive sites. A 10-minute boat ride from the shore, it is home to an astonishing variety of marine life. Beginner divers doing the basic Open Water course find the “Fish Identification” section really easy, having only to glance up from their picture chart to see the live example swim by.
The rock formations are interspersed with caverns amidst the sandy bottom, culminating in a small but picturesque arch. It acts as a gateway to shallower waters where you can find the small but much-loved nudibranchs. Their slow gait and every conceivable color combination make them a favorite with underwater photographers.
Island Divers founder, Norman Songco has been exploring these waters for the past 25 years and is still continually surprised. “Recently, I saw a nudibranch I’d never laid eyes on before,” he mused. “And I thought I’d seen them all.”
PUERTO’S OWN BAYWATCH
With a past history of dynamite and cyanide fishing, the Philippines has sustained much damage to its coral reefs. In an effort to control this in Palawan, the government introduced the Bantay Dagat (Baywatch) program in 1992.
There was a ban on illegal fishing techniques as well as the introduction of fish sanctuaries and reserves. Local communities combined with naval and police forces to enable constant coastal surveillance – no mean feat with such a vast area of ocean to patrol. Heavy sentences of up to 20 years imprisonment for offenders help to maintain the zero tolerance level.
These days, Songco, a founding member of the Marine Mammal Rescue Society, gets called out to help untangle a turtle or dugong entangled in a fishing net. As part of a community awareness program, the fisherman who helps save the creature has his name read out on the radio with a huge thank you and recognition of a good deed. They are even given a certificate of appreciation, which makes them ridiculously pleased and works far better than the fear of receiving a fine.
“Ten years ago, they would have just eaten anything they caught, regardless of whether it’s a protected or endangered species or not,” said Norman. “Fishermen have come a long way.”
Last Frontier dive-master, Elmer, is a typical example of the type of environmental reform Palawan is known for. An ex-boatman and fisherman of 20 years experience, he now uses his vast knowledge of the surrounding waters for tourism. The nutrient rich waters of the Sulu Sea ensure a steady supply of all kinds of marine life, and it is not unusual for divers in the bay to encounter turtles, stingrays, sharks, dugongs or the occasional whaleshark.
SHARK SPOTTING
The thrillingly named Shark Point is about a 15-minute boat ride from the beach, just past the mouth of the bay. Not surprisingly, it is one of Puerto’s favorite dive spots.
“Bigger fish love it here,” advised Elmer. “There are lots of large rocks for them to rest under. Filipinos aren’t the only ones who love a siesta.”
The area is known for white tips, zebra and leopard sharks as well as schools of larger fish such as barracuda.
It’s a curious thing, willing sharks to appear. They are at once a diver’s greatest fear as well as the ultimate thrill. As we descended straight down to 30m and started a slow trawl of the rocky terrain, I kept a vigilant eye out for any shadows that appeared darker than usual or any flicker of movement in my field of vision.
After 15 minutes, with no sightings of anything bigger than a passing pair of Skipjack Tuna, I began to feel disappointment set in. Such is the fickle nature of the sea, I thought. Elmer was only mildly surprised, reminding me that marine life is wild. But more often than not, he sees sharks in this area and as the kings of the sea, their majesty is something to behold.
MICRO MAGIC
For now, I began to take in details of the area, noticing luminous anemone lighting up the sparse sea floor. A patchwork of pale sponges and soft corals covered the entire area and occasionally, an enormous fan coral towered out of a crevice, bewildering in its out of place beauty. I was humbled by the sheer size and intricate network of growth, easily surpassing my height.
Coming across a flat carpet of sand, I was rewarded with the sight of a Fantail Ray resting like an upright vacuum cleaner under a ledge. Just ahead of me, Elmer pointed out various Lionfish suspended in photo opportunity poses.
Their poisonous fins gently fanned the water, turning their striped body around in a slow, sensuous circle.
We then ascended to a higher depth where Elmer searched for creatures that were easy to overlook. A well-camouflaged Frogfish clung to the edge of a Giant Sponge, its radiant yellow color and bulbous face making it all but impossible to spot at first glance.
We spent the half hour surface interval at nearby Pristine beach, excitedly discussing the various marine life we had seen. The Japanese girls had missed the Green Sea Turtle which shot off from its resting place, but we had all witnessed the rare sight of a Raggy Scorpionfish devouring its prey. Because of its uncanny ability to mimic surrounding rocks and encrusting corals, they are difficult to spot (not to mention incredibly ugly), but our attention was caught by the confusing sight of the tail end of a fish seemingly attached to a rock.
SPOILT FOR CHOICE
Perhaps the best thing about diving in one of Puerto’s dozen or so dive sites is that there is something for all levels of experience. New sites are continually being added as the waters are explored with recreational diving in mind, rather than commercial fishing.
There are soft corals and sponges just below the surface at White Beach for beginners and some great photo opportunities at The Arch for macro lovers. Advanced divers who can handle stronger currents at Pits Reef should seize the opportunity to see huge schools of barracuda, Yellowfin Tuna or perhaps a Hammerhead shark.
And this is one of the main drawcards of diving in Puerto Princesa – it has a little bit of everything and caters for all levels of diving experience. As Elmer said, paraphrasing Forrest Gump:
“The best thing about diving here is that you never know what you’re going to see.”
WHERE TO STAY
Top end treats like Dolce Vita, Wescom/Romasanta Road, tel (048) 434-5357 (from PHP2,500) or the budget Moana Hotel, Rizal Avenue near the airport, handy with its on-site dive shop, tel (048) 434-4753 (from PHP700).
OTHER ACTIVITIES
Take a day trip to Honda Bay for snorkelling and sunbathing or join a dolphin-watching group. Visit the crocodile farm or butterfly garden and take a relaxing dip in the healing hot springs. Check out Iwahig Penal Colony, a model prison of an integrated farming community.
Cebu Pacific flies daily to Puerto Princesa from Manila.
WHEN TO GO
Palawan is rarely affected by typhoons, but the gusty northwest “amihan” winds can affect visibility between December and February. Now is the best time to go as warm weather and the calmest seas prevail between March to June, but the diving is good until end of October.
DIVE COMPANIES
Last Frontier: www.lastfrontierdive.com, tel (048) 434-5145 Island Divers: www.islanddivers.ph, tel (048) 433-2917 Moana Dive Center: tel (048) 434-4753. Expect to pay from US$60-73 (PHP29,353-3,571) for two dives, including gear. PADI courses start at US$290 (PHP14,187.40) for Open Water.
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