Lester V. Ledesma discovers some intriguing similarities between two former trading ports
Two places existing in isolation from each other. Two places that mirror one another in many ways. Stand on a sidewalk and stare at a city that is both strange and familiar. This is Melaka, on the west coast of Malaysia, a place mentioned countless times in history books. It is one of those special areas where the past seems to come alive in streets teeming with a mix of cultures from past and present. Yet, strangely, it is reminiscent of a place that is closer to home: Vigan, a sleepy heritage town on the north-western coast of Luzon. The likeness shows itself in little ways, from the laid-back vibe in the neighborhoods, to the “chop suey-ed” influences on the native food and the eclectic mix of patterns in the local architecture.
A SPICY HISTORY
To understand what makes these places tick, it’s necessary to learn about their histories. Established in the 1400s, Melaka (or Malacca), was one of the wealthiest kingdoms in early South-East Asia, its territory starting from Pattani (Thailand) in the north, and stretching all the way south to the island of Sumatra (Indonesia). Melaka’s strength was mainly economic, however, thanks to its strategic location amid one of Asia’s major sea lanes (the Straits of Malacca).
Melaka was a major player on the eastern side of the spice trade and it was this distinction that made it a prime target for colonization by the Europeans.
Eager to control the flow of these commodities at their source, both Spain and Portugal sent expeditions to Asia to establish relations with Melaka.
The first to arrive were the Portuguese, eventually annexing the city in 1511. The Spaniards, on the other hand, bumped into the Philippines and made it their home.
Although the Spaniards never got to control the spice trade in these parts, they did find the islands ideally located for business: close to China and Japan and a necessary stop-over on the arduous trip to the Americas. It didn’t take long for the conquistadors to open shop; after establishing their colonial government in Manila, the Spaniards began the Manila-Acapulco galleon trade in 1565.
THE GLORY YEARS
For centuries, this and the spice trade would serve as a great trading link between the continents. Massive ships plied the oceans loaded with fine silk, jade and porcelain from China, exquisite lacquer-ware from Japan, jewelry, woodcarvings and other handicrafts from the rest of Asia and, of course, plenty of cinnamon from Ceylon, pepper from India and nutmeg and cloves from the fabled Spice Islands. The Portuguese sailed westward from Melaka towards Europe while the Spaniards pointed their galleons east – towards their Mexican colony at the far end of the Pacific – where the cargo was hauled overland and loaded onto ships headed for Spain.
Although the journeys often began and ended in Manila, the town of Vigan was one of its major ports of call. Bigan (as it was then known) was, in fact, already a bustling, multicultural trade zone before the Spaniards arrived – its shores catering to merchants from neighboring kingdoms. This community thrived during the 250 years the galleon trade existed. Thanks to its gold, its sturdy abel iloko cloth and its durable burnay earthenware, the natives of Vigan grew in wealth and number.
ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE
The prosperity that the Bigueños once enjoyed is still evident today. Spared from the destruction of World War II, the streets retain much of their antique charm. In the Kamestisuhan district – named for the descendants of Chinese merchants who settled here – dozens of centuries-old mansions stand on cobblestoned streets. The dominant architecture is a mix of Asian, Spanish and Mexican elements, seen in the delicate Capiz windows and the adobe stonework that adorns many a façade. Inside, most of these homes contain reminders of the lofty lifestyle that the occupants used to live. Hardwood floors and high ceilings make up the halls, complemented by fine European chandeliers, exquisite Chinese opium beds and Mexican silverware.
Melaka didn’t fare as well from its experience with colonizers. For a time, its spice-driven commerce continued at the hands of the Portuguese, but all that changed in 1641 when the Dutch captured the territory and devastated it in the process. Wishing to promote their Sumatran colony as the new entrepôt for South-East Asian trade, the Dutch kept Melaka as a minor port, encouraging merchants to go elsewhere to trade. From then on, the city degenerated into a backwater town, its once-bustling streets now ambling to a slower pace of life.
TELLINGLY TOURISTY
In modern times, tourism has become the big earner for Melaka. Like Vigan, though, emblems of the old lifestyle remain. This is most evident in the ethnic enclaves of Chinatown and Little India. Walking down these narrow streets, one cannot help but look at the ageing shophouses on both sides.
As is the case with its Philippine counterpart, these were mostly owned by Chinese merchant-immigrants, who also preferred mixing the native architecture with that of their colonists. Although Melaka seems to have more tourists than Vigan these days – credit that to its close distance to the Malaysian capital, Kuala Lumpur – both places give off that slightly melancholy feeling of nostalgia.
The more one saunters down the avenues, the more the similarities emerge. At the heart of Melaka’s former colonial district stands the town plaza itself, lorded over by the bright red and typically Dutch buildings of the Anglican Christ Church and the former town hall (now called the Stadthuys Museum). In Vigan’s own plaza, these structures could well be St Paul’s Cathedral – a massive baroque church adorned with Chinese statuary – and the nearby provincial hall. Unlike this city’s overwhelmingly Catholic orientation, however, Melaka is home to Muslims, Hindus and Taoists. Their places of worship can be seen at the aptly-named Harmony Street, where the Cheng Hoon Teng Temple, the Kampung Kling Mosque and the Sri Poyatha Temple all sit within a stone’s throw of each other.
CULTURE CLASH
These contrasts notwithstanding, there is more to compare. If Melaka has its endlessly hooting, three-wheeled trishaws, Vigan has its clip-clopping horse-drawn calesas. Whereas the native Melakans would feast on an eclectic mix of Chinese, Indian, Malay and Portuguese cuisine – think local favorites like ayam buah keluak (chicken curry with dark brown local nuts) or belacan (salty, spicy string beans) – the Bigueños would gorge on Philippine, Spanish and Mexican-inspired renditions of empanada (flour tortillas stuffed with vegetables and meat) and paella (saffron rice cooked with seafood). Both Malaccans and Bigueños have quietly adapted to their changing fortunes. Their cities are living, breathing reminders of the past – and a message to all of how much can be learnt from them.
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