action adventures in bohol
IN AMONG ITS FORESTS AND RIVERS, JENNILYN Q SALVADOR DISCOVERS BOHOL’S HIDDEN ADVENTURE HAVEN.
No Chocolate Hills. No tarsier monkeys. No Loboc River cruise. A number of new activities prove that a new wave of holiday is taking over the famous island of Bohol.
Owing to its geographical location – a lush valley framed with majestic expanse of mountain ranges – the inland municipality of Danao, is not easily accessible from the provincial capital of Tagbilaran. It’s approximately a two hour drive from the city, a factor that was instrumental in its history. Danao was the seat of one of the longest revolutions in the Philippines during Spanish colonial times, an 85 year rebellion led by Boholano Francisco Dagohoy. Today, its position along the bank of the fast-flowing Wahig River makes it the perfect place to rebel against traditional Boholanese pastimes, as well as offering the more intrepid visitor a natural high.
Getting wet at Wahig River
One of the most exciting adventures is water tubing which should be arranged with the tourism office as you’ll need a guide to lead the trek. A word of warning: it’s pretty strenuous so prepare yourself by getting a bit fitter – hardly five minutes after starting out, I was cursing myself for not having exercised regularly before the trip! The guides placed a number of rubber tires on the water and, jumping in, proceeded to demonstrate. Water tubing is an innovative Filipino twist on white-water rafting. It uses simple tires and paddles and can be done solo or in a group.
If you’re with others, not everybody needs to paddle – some can sit back and take in the scenery (the views are picturesque, the lime green peaceful river runs along the length of the municipality, and the rich foliage along the banks is a thriving ecosystem) – of course on your own it’s a more energetic option.
During the rainy season the river is anything but calm, which makes for an exhilarating tube. Ian Gonzaga of The Gonzaga Farmers Foundation, which helps train farmers in organic products, said that during those months, Wahig River experiences a reasonably strong current, “but not as strong in comparison to more popular rivers [for rafting or tubing] like the one in Cagayan Valley or Cagayan de Oro.” So while it has the excitement of being almost unknown, it’s perfect for beginners.
Lunch by the riverbank
Lunch is part of the package. The Center of Gravity, an indoor climbing facility based in Cebu, helps set up the outdoor facilities for tours in Danao. After a short trek, its pioneer Ian Sepulveda met us with a refreshingly organic lunch of fish, fresh fruit, and free range (native) chicken – there’s certainly no processed food here! For drinks we helped ourselves to buko (coconut) juice straight out of the husk.
Oh, and aside from the serving spoons, you may as well forget about using any utensils – you eat with your hands. It’s a great way to acquaint, or reacquaint yourself with native Filipino style of eating, especially in a place as picturesque as Wahig River.
Up a nd down the boulder
After lunch, Ian Sepulveda took control. “This is intended for beginners,” he explains, pointing to a rope dangling from a nine meter boulder. I tried not to dwell too much on my doubtful abilities to rappel (for the first time) down that height and listened to him engagingly talk about the basics of rappelling, while helping us put on our harnesses and helmets. Of course, before we can go down, we have to climb up, so we went to the other side of the cliff where the roots of a tree form a natural ladder.
With a rope securely attached to my harness for safety, and a guide who helped me when the roots became exceedingly narrow about halfway through, I navigated my way up the boulder. When I reached the summit, it was time to stop root climbing and try rappelling.
The rope was secured with an auto lock, which is designed for people who have very little or no experience, to automatically hold the person in place the moment he stops pressing the plier-like device which propels him downward. The most crucial part is letting go of your fear and swinging in midair. Once you’ve accomplished that, you are rewarded with an absolutely breathtaking aerial view of the Wahig River and its surrounding landscape.
However, the almost 180° vertical descent is a real workout in itself. Another of my tips would be to carry a handkerchief for vigorous brow-mopping!
Trekking Kamira Cave
Danao is blessed with a number of caves, but only three are declared by the Department of Environment and Natural Resources (DENR) as safe to explore. One of these is the Kamira Cave.
To get there from our root climbing and rappelling site, we had to do another trek starting out along the banks of the river then going inland. We were greeted at the entrance of Kamira Cave by a drop of about two meters. The area is protected so the municipality is extremely careful that the environment is disturbed as little as possible; as a result we only had a rope to maneuver ourselves going in and out of the cave (that means no ladder in sight).
The cave, named after a woman called Mira (Ka is a prefix used in local provinces when addressing someone with familiarity) who used to own the land, is 477 meters in length. You can explore it in about 45 minutes to an hour, allowing a little longer if you want to take pictures. Just make sure your camera has a very powerful flash; even with all the headlights and flashlights turned on it was really quite dim in the cave.
Kamira Cave is home to bats and crabs, and is abundant with breathtaking formations of stalagmites and stalactites. I particularly liked the way the walls glittered in the glow of the lights – something to do with the content of the water, one of our guides informed us.
There are sections of the cave where we had to submerge ourselves completely under water to pass through. As the water is cold, I noticed that it did wonders to cool and soothe the stiffness of my sore muscles after so much trekking. However, because it is so cold, it is advisable to wear something that easily dries off. At the end of the cave, nothing refreshes you more than a dip in the natural pool or a sip in the fountain.
A lure for adventure and thrill seekers
Danao is a lively addition to Bohol’s attractions, making the island even more diverse and appealing to tourists. New though it may be, the people behind it believe that it has very promising eco-tourism potential.
“Danao is not your normal take on Bohol.” says Ian Gonzaga.
“It’s different because it offers a variety of activities in just one area.”
As Ian Sepulveda puts it: “Other destinations might have bigger caves, bigger rivers, bigger cliffs, and so on, but they do not have all of these aspects together at the same time within a few hundred meters from a guest’s room.”
When going off-the-beaten path, emotions often swing between the nervous anticipation of the unfamiliar and giddy excitement over what lies ahead. When you visit Danao, you will most likely bask in all those feelings, returning home with an experience you will never forget. So remember, there’s much more than the tarsier!
E.A.T. DANAO IN A NUTSHELL
The adrenalin-infused heart-thumping line-up of activities in Danao is a relatively new eco-adventure tourism concept collectively called E.A.T. Danao. This title is tailored to meet the needs and preferences of its participants. It can stand for Eco-Adventure Tour, for those who want a more laidback pace; Extreme Adventure Tour if you want to rough it up; and Educational Adventure Tour if you opt for a dose of historical insights thrown in.
The tour package is priced at PHP2,700 (US$58) per person, as long as there is a minimum of six participants. It’s inclusive of meals, transportation from Tagbilaran, accommodation, equipment rental and guides. For inquiries on bookings contact Loinda Saluan (0917 3021701) or Ian Gonzaga (0917 3252426).
GETTING TO DANAO
Tagbilaran has a terminal where you can take either a bus or van for hire (V-hire) to Danao. However, since the road to the municipality alternates between well paved and rugged, you may want to consider renting a car (about PHP2,500/USD54) per day, including driver) for your convenience.
Cebu Pacific Air has flights twice daily from Manila to Tagbilaran.
WHERE TO STAY
Bohol lets you choose the scenery you want. You can go for abundant terrains in Loboc at Hill Top Cottage, tel (038) 537 9174 (PHP750/USD16) for standard room); or enjoy the beach in Panglao at Alona Tropical Beach Resort, tel. (038) 502 9031 (PHP1,250/USD27) for standard room).
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