Heavenly Spirit

LESTER V LEDESMA EXPLORES THE TWO FACES OF THE ATI-ATIHAN, THE WORLD’S MOST UNUSUAL RELIGIOUS FESTIVAL PHOTOGRAPHY BY LESTER V LEDESMA

It’s 4.30am and there’s an unusual sight in downtown Kalibo, Aklan. Bathed in the glow of 100 candles, a solemn procession is winding its way through the streets of this still-sleeping community, its participants crowded around an array of carroza-borne (carriage-borne) saints.

The cool January air mixes with the soft murmurings of Hail Mary, as women and children march down a route that starts and ends at the door of the old cathedral, right in the center of town. It is a scene that has been repeated for decades at this time of the year, a tradition that, despite its faithful observance, seems oddly incongruous with the occasion it celebrates.

The third Saturday of January heralds the start of the loudest, rowdiest and most exciting fiesta in the Philippines. Although it may seem otherwise, this spiritual parade quietly ushers in two days of unabashed, alcohol-fuelled revelry, and begins the feast of Santo Niño, more popularly known as the Ati-atihan Festival. Equally intriguing is that it’s all done in the name of a child – the Child Christ, or Santo Niño, to be exact.

The event’s trademark of soot-blackened, perpetually-smiling ati-ati ‘warriors’ embodying the Filipino penchant for happy times, is the classic emblem of the fiesta islands. With their outlandish tribal-inspired costumes, these street-dancing revelers have appeared in postcards and magazines throughout the world. They are so iconic that their look has been copied countless times in other fiestas throughout these islands, in places as far-off as Manila (located some 250km to the north), which has its own January Santo Niño festival, or as near as neighboring Iloilo (on the other side of Panay Island, where Kalibo is located), which celebrates a similar fiesta called the Dinagyang.

Depending on whom you ask, the Ati-atihan has a number of origins, each quite different from the next, but all of them involving the province’s indigenous tribe, the dark-skinned Atis. One version states that this event commemorates an ancient peace pact between the natives and Malay settlers from Borneo, who offered a golden salakot (a traditional wide-brimmed hat still used by farmers in rural Philippines) to the Ati chieftain in exchange for the right to live on these shores. In gratitude, the outsiders painted themselves black (ati-ati, in the Aklanon dialect, means “to pretend to be an ati”) to show solidarity with their new neighbors. Another account attributes the Ati-atihan to the Spaniards’ conversion of the Atis to Christianity. So joyful were these people that they danced after being baptized. There is also the story of the native soldiers who repulsed a pirate attack with their cannons. After the battle was won, they emerged covered in soot, looking very much like the Atis – thus reportedly sparking this annual tradition.

Whichever of these is the true origin of the Ati-atihan festival, it is now firmly associated with the Child Christ and the boy himself is enough reason for the Kalibonon (the residents of Kalibo) to party.

At 6am, not long after the pre-dawn procession has ended, the ati-atis are getting ready. On street corners, garages and empty lots throughout the municipality, preparations are well under way with hundreds of would-be revelers getting their costumes ready. Powdered charcoal is wiped onto bodies and acrylic “warpaint” is brushed onto faces. Costume pieces made from cardboard, colored seeds, bits of rattan, woven coconut strands and even pieces of glass are worn.

The revelry that defines the Ati-atihan may be spontaneous, but it revolves around a highly organized army of more than two-dozen different ati-ati tribes. Groups with names like Tribu Tiis-tiis, Tribu Lunok or Tribu Balik Ati each have their own distinctive appearance, and are all in competition to be this year’s best ati-ati tribe. There is a mayor-sponsored cash prize, but the motivation for participating is far from monetary.

“I’m doing this for the Santo Niño”, says Samuel, an 11-year-old member of the Ligayon tribe. “I want to dance for him and I want to do my best.” Should his group win this year, he plans to give his share of the money to his parents. Surprisingly, grooving on the streets is regarded as an offering to the Child Christ. It may not seem like hard work, until one realizes that this is done all day under the sweltering tropical sun.

Surprising, too, is the role that alcohol plays in this spiritual sacrifice. The older ati-atis, who lack the stamina of their younger comrades, swear by the power of Tanduay Rhum and San Miguel beer. “Alcohol warms up the body; drinking while doing the dance is like exercising without having to warm up,” affirms one of Samuel’s elder tribe-mates. Even the local priests would no doubt attest to these spirits’ ability to energize the, uh… spirit, “as long as they don’t drink too much, it’s ok!” one of them declares.

By 7am, all the groups have gathered in the center of town. The ati-atis all stand to attention on the main streets of Kalibo, waiting for the day’s festivities to begin. An hour later, the sound of drumbeats fills the air and the warriors begin the pasadsad – their dance of sacrifice – in a furious flurry of movement. They shake and they bake, raising wooden shields and brandishing mock spears as this colorful procession starts snaking down the nearby avenues. Shouts of “Hala Bira! Pwera Pasma! Viva Santo Niño!” (“Hit ’em! Nobody gets tired! Long live the Santo Niño!) are heard, perhaps in reference to the battle cry of those cannoneers of old. The noise is infectious, and judging from their smiles, it seems the ati-atis are enjoying every minute.

By noon, the parade has disintegrated into a chaotic mass of bodies, costumes, tomtoms and booze. The tribes freely roam the neighborhoods, their ranks now swelling with countless fans who have joined in.

Occasionally, two groups meet at opposite ends of the street – and without hesitation they plow into each other; their combined drumming, shouting and dancing becoming even more frenzied as the revelers struggle to outdo each other.

Such mindless merriment continues well into the night, with tipsy revelers stopping only to catch a few hours’ sleep. Sunday, the final day of the Ati-atihan, sees the same scene repeated once more, but now raised a few notches higher. In a furious final hurrah, the ati-ati tribes step up the festivities, and everyone else follows suit.

The climax comes later at night during the torchlight parade when the townsfolk – many of them now thoroughly sloshed – take to the streets in full force.

All inhibitions are dropped; grandfathers and grandmothers shimmy with painted faces; younger ones put on masks and all kinds of costumes, and cross-dressers come out with skirts flailing. Bottles of liquor are raised along with trumpets and drumsticks. If the pre-dawn procession was spiritual, this one is spirited in every sense of the word. Yet in the midst of it all stands the sacred Santo Niño, perched on top of many a carroza, or cradled in the arms of a partying devotee – side-by-side, perhaps, with a glass of gin.

Some could be shocked by this decidedly profane mix of events. Indeed, party and host seem to be on totally different spheres. Nevertheless, on goes the celebration till the knees give in or the alcohol runs out. Does the Ati-atihan lead to heaven or a hangover? We’re not quite sure – maybe it leads to both.

BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO ATI-ATIHAN

Its sheer exuberance should ensure that all visitors have a great time at the Ati-atihan festival, says Madeleine Ensor. For a few basic tips, read on…

What to expect:  
• Unbridled fun and hundreds of locals getting down and dirty on the streets of Kalibo. If you’re staying in the center of town, you’d better be a sound sleeper; Kaliboans can party throughout the night and still be alert for the religious side of the festival at 4am… and then there’s the pre-dawn starts if you’re participating in the tribal parade.

• Various activities: Street dancing, a showcase of local products, art exhibitions, school and barangay parades, the crowning of Miss Kalibo, the Ati-atihan contest, the dawn rosary and procession, fireworks and an awards ceremony. Pick up a leaflet from tourist information.  
• Few foreign tourists. The ones who do venture here, such as Romanian kite-boarder Camelia Constantines, are more intrepid than your usual Boracay tourist.

How to participate:  
• Throw yourself into the spirit of the celebration and the locals will take care of the rest. Bring an open mind and above all, a friendly attitude. Allen S Quinpo, president of Northwestern Visayas College and former mayor of Kalibo says: “It is about a celebration of friendship, to celebrate the Barter of Panay. We bump each other, we are both drunk, but the spirit of friendship is the reason why we don’t get angry.”  
• Go to the cathedral to catch mass at any time during the weekend and immerse yourself in the spirituality of the event.  
• Pick a spot on the street, absorb the festivities and you won’t be able to help but leave cynicism behind. If you go to Magsaysay Park on Saturday night you’ll find yourself irresistibly drawn into the conga!

What to wear:  
• Casual, comfortable clothes that you don’t mind getting dirty should you choose to join in the dancing, or if one of the barangay tribes offers you a slick of charcoal!

What to eat:  
• If you’re lucky enough to be invited into someone’s house for merienda, expect dishes such as raw fish in vinegar, sweet mango rice, chewy black pigs’ ears and Balikbayan chicken stuffed in bamboo with lemongrass. For restaurants, try Mix and Match for curries, Pans & Buns Bake Shop for breakfast and lunch items, Bread and Butter for burgers or Even Jean’s Cake Shop (both on the main square).

FUN MUSICAL FACT:

The music is an odd mix of amalgamated Western classics. During the tribal street procession, some swear one of the tribes plays Stevie Wonder’s ‘Part-time Lover’, blended with ‘Save The Last Dance For Me’. While at Saturday night’s festival at Magsaysay Park, where school children performed incredible dance shows and the new Miss Kalibo was crowned, the crowd was whipped into a frenzy by World War II classic ‘Roll Out The Barrel’ and the 1930s song, ‘Happy Days Are Here Again’.

VISITOR Q&A

Ofer and Robert, both 24 from Israel

What brought you here? Ofer: “I’m in the Philippines as part of a backpacking trip that’s included China. I felt a special atmosphere in the Philippines after being in the country a really short time. I was diving in Apo Island on a liveaboard, but in terms of being different, the Ati-atihan is better! It’s amazing. I’d like to stay here for another month.

I’m going to Iloilo next weekend. January is full of festivals.”

Robert: “I came to Cebu because of the cheap Cebu Pacific flight! Friends who’d been to the Philippines told me to run after the festivals. This is the best, the others are organized so you can’t join in, but this one is so inclusive. We’ve been offered swigs of rum, the locals have been letting us play the drums and dance. When you dance with them they dance twice as hard. The ‘Bugs’ tribe dances like crazy!”

Who would like it? Robert: “Families! But it might not be good for over-worried Western mothers! I would love to come with friends and spend maybe two weeks here. Thailand is so much more touristy. This is more real. They should promote the culture as well as the beach and the sea.’’

What do you like to eat? Robert: “We’ve been eating in local restaurants and eateries. We’d recommend beef with coconut and celery. For breakfast we either have a Western thing like an omelette, or we have bibingka cake with rice and coconut.”

OTHER THINGS TO DO IN KALIBO:

Bakhawan Eco-Park
This coastal eco-attraction has been revamped in recent years, with a secluded and romantic mangrove bamboo walk.

Piña Village
Meet the skilled craftswomen who create the Piña fabric in this village just outside of Kalibo town.

Museo It Akean
Exhibitions on the history of Aklan.

The Kalibo Cathederal
The centerpiece of the town. First built in 1581, it was renovated in 1993 and holds regular worship throughout the Ati-atihan festival.