Feasting and Fasting
CELEBRATING EASTER OR INDULGING BEFORE LENT? MAIDA C PINEDA SUGGESTS THREE NEW FINDS IN METRO MANILA’S MALLS.
HOLY COW CHOPHOUSE
TriNoma, the latest mall in Quezon City offers not just a sprawling shopping paradise in the northern section of Manila, but also a laid-back ambiance for dining. Holy Cow Chophouse is a newly-opened American family restaurant, with a life-size cow figure to welcome diners and three plastic, mounted cow heads. Plain brick walls are spared from the tacky clutter of other US-themed restaurants, and black leather seats really keep with the theme.
The décor’s simplicity prods the diner’s attention to the food, there are no cutesy names or gimmickry. The man behind the dishes is reputed restaurateur Fernando Aracama, famous for the playful restaurant Uva and chocnut ice cream. Kids will love the cornfl akecrusted chicken with honey and Dijon mustard with French fries (PHP195/ USD4.65), and the crispy crab puffs: light clouds of creamy crab meat stuffed into wontons and served with a mango salsa (PHP195/USD4.65). But this chophouse’s must-try is tender US Angus Beef Bistro Fillet (PHP399/USD9.55), served with grilled vegetables, potato or rice and choice of sauce (our pick would be hickory barbecue). Straightforward, unpretentious dining. Open Weekdays: 11-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm, Weekends 11-11:30pm 4th Level Trinoma Mall, tel (2) 916 6299.
CANTINETTA
Since the popularity of the South Beach and Atkins diets, carbs have had a bad rap. Weight-conscious dieters have avoided white rice, pastas and bread like the plague, but despite the carb-free trend, many friends have been talking about pasta joint Cantinetta in Rockwell and the dish that’s causing a buzz is Tartufo (PHP 510/USD12.20), a truffl e cream sauce with parmesan cheese served with pasta. It’s best paired with succulent Medaglione Alle Cream De Tartufo (beef tenderloin in truffl e sauce) (PHP860/USD20.55). Servings are generous and these two dishes would feed three hungry diners. The intensity of the truffl e oil enlivens the pasta with its bold, earthy punch. Retail 1 Block 9, Hidalgo Street, Rockwell, Makati, tel 403 0145.
FISH OUT OF WATER
The latest addition to the Ayala family of malls is Greenbelt 5, where restaurants and shops overlook the manicured park and pond surrounding the famous chapel. Fish Out Of Water is one of the first restaurants to open, and the latest venture from tireless restaurateur Raymund Magdaluyo, the man behind Red Crab, Heaven ’N Eggs, and more. Learning about the Manilamen, who jumped ship in the 1760s en route to Acapulco, Raymund set up the restaurant in their honor, and other Filipinos who have migrated to foreign seas. It serves New World recipes focusing on good quality seafood.
Killer Rock Lobster with garlic crab roe sauce and roasted vegetable pilaf (PHP565/USD13.50) is a rich helping of talangka (crab roe or “fat”) and a delicate lobster countered by the healthy fl avors of pilaf. For those with an adventurous palate, try fried frog legs with mango chipotle sauce (PHP 195/USD4.70) or wild boar tapa with sautéed carrots and raspberry tea couscous (PHP439/USD10.50).
Carrying on the watery theme, white moldings on the ceiling carry the shape of waves, with maps decorating the walls. As you dive into Fish Out Of Water’s dishes, you will find yourself swimming in many different cuisines. 3rd Floor, Greenbelt 5, Makati, tel (2) 729 3858.