BIKER NOVICE JENNILYN Q SALVADOR PUTS HER FOOT DOWN IN DUMAGUETE AND DISCOVERS THE JOYS OF TWO-WHEELS
Me and the bike, ready
to
explore
beautiful
Negros Orient al…
It is easy to see why the city of Dumaguete is touted as the motorcycle capital of the Philippines. Everywhere you look you see them. Scooters are parked along the sidewalks and motorcycles speed past. Big motorbikes sit next to regularsized motorcycles, popularly referred to as “econopower” – meaning they consume less fuel, but are still efficient. The people behind the handlebars range from solo drivers to families of five, young students to senior citizens and from Western visitors to local travellers.
The records of the Land Transportation Office (LTO) show that in 2006, over five million motorbikes were registered in the Philippines, but over 10 per cent came from Region VII, Negros Oriental.
The name Dumaguete is actually derived from the local term dumaguet, meaning to swoop, because centuries ago the town was constantly attacked by pirates. Today, the term refers to the many visitors who are lured by the city’s quaint charms and hospitable people. This coastal city is bordered by the Tañon Strait and Mindanao Sea on the east, and it’s easily accessible to the neighboring provinces of Siquijor and Cebu. As the capital of Negros Oriental, it serves as a gateway to other municipalities of the province, and to get around people often travel by motorbike.
Here motorcycles are not just the most common mode of transportation, they’re a way of life. In fact, it is not uncommon for owners to design their bike according to their style and personality. Rommel’s Shop is a motorcycle store that specializes in painting motorcycle covers, and it produces several designs with lively and trendy colors. “We always use bright colors, like metal red and blue, because it makes the motorcycles come alive. The customers usually try to specify what they like, so it’s easier for us to work on it,” a member of staff explains. 
Sunset at Riza l Boulevard
Compared to other towns in Negros Oriental, Dumaguete is the smallest in terms of land area and many of the famous sites in the city are relatively close together – making a motorcycle easily the best way to tour the city.
It’s a university town; the most dominant institute is Silliman University, the first Protestant school in the Philippines and the oldest American-established university in Asia. Spanning 35 hectares, it is well known for the century-old trees that line its pathways as well as being a declared bird sanctuary that’s open to the public.
The city is also home to Foundation University, Negros Oriental State University, and the first Saint Paul University in the country, as well as nine high schools and 12 elementaries. Considering this, it’s not surprising that the total student population is estimated to be around 30,000. That figure includes a number of foreigners who add another
Biking at Siliman University
Me and the bike, ready to explore a local fish meal called tempura. This got its name from the Japanese version as it is also deep fried and coated with batter, but unlike the Japanese dish which is quite crispy, this version is more on the chewy side.
“The boulevard is one of the best tourist attractions in the province. It faces the Mindanao Sea and glows proudly, inviting boats coming from the neighboring islands,” says tourism officer, Cinderella Baena.
Food vendor at
the boulevard
with tempura“It’s the most relaxing place to stroll in the morning, in the afternoon, or anytime of the day. It’s where you feel the cool breeze of the sea,” adds Penn Larena, a Department Of Tourism-accredited tour guide. “Rizal Boulevard is the show window of Dumaguete. It is named after the national hero Dr Jose Rizal [who lived in the 19th century] because he was there before and after his exile in Dapitan, so visitors can feel the historical ambiance of the place as well.”
The Dumaguete Belfry is one of the most popular landmarks here. The bell tower, sitting right next to the church, attracts many devotees who light candles while praying. Motorcycles flank the roads as people go about their business in a blurring haze of two-wheeled activity.
“I’ve been riding motorcycles for 30 years,” says Binceo Vincule, matter-of-factly. “I find it very convenient to go to work, and I can take my whole family [of five] on it.”
For Vicente Batiencila, who has been riding for 10 years, it’s “always easier to cultural dimension to an already cosmopolitan town.
Rizal Boulevard is a long stretch of avenue that offers a great view of the Tañon Strait, connecting the Visayan to the Bohol Sea. If you want to have a glimpse of the motorcycle lifestyle in the city, over a light meal or drinks, this is a great place to be. The boulevard is downtown, so motorcycles pass here just about every minute of the day. Many residents and visitors also go here to jog, take in a breath of fresh air, or just relax and while away the time, so you can observe the culture as well.
For a dose of nightlife, there are several restaurants and bars fronting the boulevard to choose from. Or if you want a more local feel, there are stalls that sell squid balls, balut (fertilized eggs), and get somewhere” by motorcycle. “Most residents here have their own,” he explains.
Alejandro Diputado adds: “It is far easier to drive a motorcycle than it is to handle cars and jeepneys, and it uses less gasoline as well. When you’re driving a motorcycle, a liter of gas is already good enough to take you somewhere.”
Nico Makasiar explains the attraction of a motorcycle in this city a little more succinctly: “Dumaguete has some very narrow streets, so it is easier if you’re on a motorcycle.”
Yet it’s outside Dumaguete that things get really picturesque, and if you hit Negros Oriental on your rented motorbike, you can really explore. However, if you’re going to drive yourself, make sure you’re confident about your driving skills. The landscape of the province is blessed with lush surroundings and impressive mountain ranges, which inevitably means rugged and twisting roads as well as elevated slopes.
If you can’t drive but still want to travel on a motorcycle, you can ask for a driver to take you around at the vehicle rental shop – although not all shops may have this service. Just don’t forget to agree on an hourly rate (see ‘Getting Around Negros Oriental’ opposite).
Jay (our photographer), the driver and I hopped on a motorcycle to go to Sibulan, a town about two hours drive from Dumaguete. Getting there was an event in itself. From the salted sea breeze that wafted our senses at the start of the ride, the road took us to an extensive rainforest that filled the air with scented smells of plants and trees. Apart from the sound of our motorcycle, and the occasional passing vehicle, the place appeared cut off from civilization. It’s always exhilarating from the back of a bike, I think it has a lot to do with the unobstructed view and the road stretching before you. Anything can happen, and all you have to do is enjoy the moment.
The town is famous for the Twin Lakes of Balinsasayao (a national park surrounded by rainforest); unfortunately, we were not able to reach it. The terrain became exceedingly steep, and the regular five horsepower of our 110cc motorbike, meant that it couldn’t manage the strain of three people riding on it. So make sure you pick a bike for your needs! If you want to go long distances or on rough terrain get a bike that’s at least 125cc, especially if you’re not riding alone.
There were other things to make up for the Twin Lakes though. At the visitors center, where guests going to the Twin Lakes register and pay the entrance fee (PHP10/USD0.25 per person), there is a scenic little lake called Lake Kabalin-An. It was so calm it reflected the sky and the trees at the center as clearly as a mirror, providing a peaceful backdrop after the revving and excitement of our journey.
Jay was almost done with the shoot when it began to rain. The temperature dropped immediately and mist blanketed the lake until we couldn’t see more than a few meters from the cottage where we were. I turned to the road and found that, like everywhere else, it was practically shrouded in fog, creating an aura of mystery.
It was already early afternoon and we hadn’t had lunch yet. We also didn’t have our jackets with us so were now freezing. It was a blessing the people at the reception allowed us to take refuge in the visitor’s center. A really valuable lesson I learned that day was to always be prepared. When going on a road trip, especially out of town, carry supplies of food and drinks, and rain gear – for unpredictable weather.
An hour later, the rain stopped, so we grabbed the opportunity to head back. Going on the rough road in clear conditions was already hard, but because of the rain it became even more difficult. Once in a while, Jay and I had to get off and just walk because the downward slope would send us skidding on the ground otherwise. There were even a couple of really steep curves that Jay called “you’vegot-to-be-kidding” turns. Yet the trek afforded us a slower pace, allowing us to marvel at nature’s diverse creations.
The next day, eager for more adventures, we found ourselves on our way to the town of Valencia, less than an hour from the city. This time around, we opted to try hopping on a local motorcycle called habal-habal to take us to Casaroro Falls. The term habal-habal actually originated from a Visayan term which roughly means “bodies close together,” because the people who ride it are always in very close proximity with each other. You can easily find many habal-habal in Valencia. In fact, most towns in the province have an abundant supply as they’re a popular mode of transport. Habal-habal are very easy to recognize because they are considerably longer than regular motorcycles, and in most towns they are usually in small clusters.
Casaroro Falls is one of the most photographed bodies of water in Negros Oriental. The road leading there is not that steep, but very rugged, and my arms ached from just trying to maintain my balance while the driver navigated through the rough terrain. It was so rugged only sturdy motorcycles, like habal-habal, can usually pass. I discovered that getting to the entrance of the falls was half the thrill, actually getting there was the other. We had to descend an impressive number of steps – 335 in all – before we arrived at a pavement and faced another 15 minute trek.
Here the mountains bordered almost all sides, and the impressive cliffs were filled with green foliage. We passed by plants bearing wild berries and majestic bamboos swaying in the wind. The sound of the rushing waters was soothing and, although we didn’t get to swim or even paddle in the spring, the sight was more than worth the effort.
At the time, a view deck to the falls was under construction, so getting to the actual falls (which cascade at about 50 feet) involved a bit of balancing on slightly unsteady rocks to get to the other side. Two construction workers kindly helped us get through.
My travels around Negros Oriental opened my eyes to its breathtaking landscapes and riding a motorcycle made me experience it in a whole new light. So if you want to see Dumaguete, explore it the way residents do and hop on board a motorbike!
How to be a good passenger
Not only did I see a different side of Dumaguete, but the trip provided a
crash course in motorbikes. Here’s what I learnt…
■ If the bike is climbing
on a steep slope,
weight should be
concentrated to the
front. Jay was heavier
than me, so he sat in
the middle and I sat
on the back of the
motorcycle, making it
easier for the driver to
navigate.
■ When going
downward, these
positions should be
reversed – the back of
the motorcycle should
carry the heavier
weight.
■ The driver must
hold on to the
handlebar brake when
descending.
■ A good passenger
goes with the flow
of the bike: don’t
be stiff or rigid. This
helps the driver take
better control with
the minimum of
disturbance, not to
mention it being a lot
more comfortable for
the passenger!
A more sedate option
If you feel you’ve already had your fair share of excitement, you can opt
to see some other parts of the province at a more relaxed pace…
Forest Camp
Near Valencia, Forest Camp
features a series of natural springs
and pools, and has amenities like
cottages and picnic tables so
it’s ideal for groups of families
and friends. It also has a small
restaurant, and even overnight
rooms, so if you want to linger it
can easily be arranged.
Malatapay Market
Check out this market if you’re in
Zamboanguita on a Wednesday.
Sample fresh eafood cooked on
the spot, and a myriad of other sea
and farm products. The market is
open from 6am and is considered by many locals as their favorite
breakfast place, so don’t miss it.
Apo Island
Zamboanguita is also known for
one other thing – it is the gateway
to the world-renowned diving spot,
Apo Island.
Getting around Negros Oriental
Cebu Pacific flies
daily from Manila to
Dumaguete. From the
capital, you can hire
a motorcycle (about
PHP20/USD0.50 per
hour). If you want to
use the services of a
driver, the rate is the
same (PHP20/USD0.50
per hour) plus meals if
you’re going to take the
whole day. For habalhabal,
there’s a standard
rate (about PHP100/
USD2.40 one way) for a
motorcycle, regardless
of how many passengers
there are. For tricycles, it costs about PHP500/
USD12 for half-day tours,
and PHP1000/USD24 for
the whole day.
Where to Stay
You can find several
hotels and tourist inns
in Dumaguete, and the
prices are reasonable.
Try Vintage Inn at
Legaspi Street, which is
only walking distance
from the boulevard
and opposite the
public market. It costs
PHP352/USD8.42 for a
single standard room,
tel (035) 225 1076.
If you want to spend
more time out of town,
check out Forest Camp
at Valencia. It costs
PHP1000/USD24 for a
standard room for two,
tel (035) 423 4017.
PHOTOGRAPHY: JAY JAVIER