CLIMB A MOUNTAIN! TREK INTO THE JUNGLE! CHRIS ROWTHORN, HEAD AUTHOR OF LONELY PLANET’S NEW BORNEO GUIDEBOOK, SHARES HIS EXCITING GAME PLAN FOR YOU
Gateway to the island of Borneo, the city of Kota Kinabalu, in Sabah, East Malaysia, is one of Asia’s hottest travel destinations. A surprisingly cosmopolitan city on the shores of the South China Sea, KK (as people like to casually call it) boasts brilliant Malay, Indian and Chinese food, a collection of first-class resorts and hotels, and enough nightlife to keep you hopping till morning. Best of all, KK is the starting point for explorations of Borneo’s thick jungles, pristine coral reefs and amazing wildlife, including – you guessed it – those lovable orangutans!
SCALE THE WORLD-FAMOUS MOUNT KINABALU Head out to the islands of Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park on a clear day and turn to look back at KK. The wild granite towers of the 4,095-meter high Mount Kinabalu positively dominate the skyline east of the city. If you’re a mountain climber or hiker, you’ll find yourself inexorably drawn to the mountain. Mount Kinabalu is like no other mountain in the world. It starts in a humid tropical jungle and ends in a cold alpine zone. The summit plateau looks like someone hacked off the best bits of Yosemite National Park in California and dumped them atop the Crocker Range in eastern Sabah. Climbing Mount Kinabalu is a two-day affair for most people. You start your climb in the morning one day and spend the night at 3,273 meters in Laban Rata Hut before rising at 4am the next day to resume the climb, reaching the summit just in time to watch the sun rise over Borneo. Make no mistake: this is seriously hard work, but when you’re standing on the top of Borneo, you’ll definitely agree that it’s worth it.
Must-know info: Book your lodgings at the mountain through Sutera Sanctuary Lodges, Lot G15, Wisma Sabah, Jln Haji Saman, Kota Kinabalu; tel +60 (88) 243 629; www.suterasanctuarylodges.com
BASK ON TROPICAL ISLES IN TUNKU ABDUL RAHMAN PARK
KK may be the only city in the world with five pristine tropical islands right offshore. Pulau (Malay for “island”) Manukan, Pulau Mamutik, Pulau Sapi, Pulau Sulug and Pulau Gaya make up the Tunku Abdul Rahman Park and are spread over 4,929 hectares, two thirds of which is sea. You could pretty much dash out to an island in the morning and be back in the city for a lunch meeting. Taxi boats run regularly between KK’s Jesselton Point Ferry Terminal and the Tunku Abdul Rahman Park – most trips take about 20 minutes. Pulau Manukan is the pick of the litter, with its own resort and a fine stretch of white-sand beach that runs the length of the southern coast of the island. Nearby Pulau Mamutik is a tiny gem with some great snorkeling off its southwest coast.
Pulau Sapi is also popular with fine white-sand beaches and pretty decent snorkeling. At low tide, you can wade from Sapi to its giant neighbor, Gaya, which has several secluded bays as well as two resorts for those who wish to stay the night.
Must-know info: Return trips from Jesselton Point Ferry Terminal cost RMB17-25(PHP232-341). Park admission is RMB10(PHP130++)
GO WILDLIFE SPOTTING
The best place in Borneo to see wild orangutans is at Borneo Rainforest Lodge, in eastern Sabah, half a day’s journey from KK by a combination of airplane and car. Located in the world-famous Danum Valley Conservation Area, Borneo Rainforest Lodge is truly unique: it’s a first-class lodge surrounded by teeming tropical jungle. The wildlife spotting here is superb, with sightings of monkeys, wild boar, various species of deer and rare birds almost guaranteed. After a day spent tramping around in the jungle, you’ll definitely appreciate the comfortable accomodations.
➤ Must-know info: Standard/ deluxe 3day/2night packages from RMB1300/1500(PHP17,665 – 20,383) at Borneo Rainforest Lodge; tel: +60 (88) 267 637; www.brl.com.my
MAKE SOME HAIRY FRIENDS
What trip to Borneo would be complete without a visit to our shaggy orange-haired cousins, the orangutans? The easiest way to spend some quality time with these playful creatures is to head over to the new Lok Kawi Wildlife Park, which is less than an hour’s drive south of the city. There are several orangutans here in a large enclosure which gives them plenty of room to frolic about. You may want to spend hours watching their strangely human antics, but do stroll through the rest of the park to see a clouded leopard, a Sumatran rhino, a sun bear, an awesome Malayan tiger, and some Asian elephants. There’s also an aviary and a nice little jungle walkway.
Must-know info: Admission adult/ child RMB20/10(PHP271/130), Lok Kawi Wildlife Park, Jalan Penampang, Papar Lama, open 9:30am-5:30pm daily; taxi return fare from KK at RM100 (PHP1300); tel: +60 (88) 765 710; www.mysabah.com/lokkawi-zoo
EXPLORE THE KK NIGHT MARKET
The KK Night Market is the best market in all of Borneo because if it swims in the sea or grows in the jungle, you can find it here.
The heart of the city, it’s where residents from all walks of life meet to shop, talk, and chow down on absolutely brilliant hawker food. The market comes to life just as the sun goes down, and you can enjoy a tropical sunset while you shop. After dark, the market takes on an almost primeval air – the air is thick with smoke from the grilled chicken hawkers and calls of “dua ringgit, dua ringgit” (“two ringgit, two ringgit”). Our recommendations?
Be sure to try a few grilled chicken wings as you wander, then have a bowl of mee goreng (the fried noodles that may be Malaysia’s national dish); and a bowl of ABC (shaved ice and all manner of wondrous toppings).
Must-know info: Off Jalan Tun Fuad Stephens (open from late afternoon to about 10pm). Meal costs start from RMB2(PHP27+)
GREAT EATS
With all there is to do in KK, you’re sure to work up an appetite. Here are our picks for the best eats in the city
FILIPINO BARBEQUE STALLS This little enclave tucked into the north end of the Night Market may be the single best place to eat in all of Borneo. It doesn’t look like much – few rows of picnic tables, a couple of barbeque grills and no decorations to speak of – but what it lacks in finery, it makes up in flavor. You’ll find a wide selection of seafood, fresh from the South China Sea: shrimp, tuna, squid, crabs etc. Tell the attendant what you’d like (most speak Tagalog, Malay and a smattering of English) and then grab a seat. While you wait for your items to be grilled, create a delectable dipping sauce with the limes, chili sauce, soy sauce and other condiments.
By the time you’re done mixing your sauce, your food will be ready. Grab some salad and seaweed from the plates on the table, and prepare to savour the makings of an authentic KK feast!
Must-know info: Off Jalan Tun Fuad Stephens (open from late afternoon to about 10pm). Meals average RMB15(PHP203++), but no alcohol is served or permitted
KEDAI KOPI FATT KEE To dine with the locals, come early and grab a table at Kedai Kopi Fatt Kee, a bustling streetside eatery that churns out some seriously good Borneo-style Chinese food. Once again, it’s not much to look at, but who cares when the food is this good? The salt and pepper prawns are excellent and you shouldn’t miss the midin (jungle fern) cooked in belacan (partially fermented shrimp paste). Orders might be slow to come out of the kitchen, but the anticipation should put a fine edge on your hunger. When you’re done eating, step around the side of the restaurant and peer into the kitchen – the guys slaving over the woks look like Vulcan in his forge.
Must-know info: Kedai Kopi Fatt Kee, 28 Jln Bakau; dinner from RMB15 (PHP203++) per head. Open lunch and dinner, closed Sundays
SUNSET WATCH FROM TANJUNG ARU
If KK isn’t already known as Asia’s City of Sunsets, it ought to be. Perched on the west coast of Borneo, overlooking the South China Sea, the city is perfectly positioned for views of brilliant tropical sunsets. The best place to enjoy this nightly spectacle is in the Tanjung Aru area, a spit of land that juts out into the sea a few kilometers south of the city center. Drop by First Beach Café for a pre-dinner drink. Then head to the nearby Tanjung Aru Seafood Restaurant for a proper Borneo seafood feast.
Must-know info: First Beach Café, Aru Drive, Tanjung Aru; tel: +60 (88) 245 158. Drinks from RM5(PHP68). Tanjung Aru Seafood Restaurant, Aru Drive, Tanjung Aru; tel: +60 (88) 245 158; Dinner about RM50(PHP679).
PARTY AT COCOON NIGHTCLUB
KK has several brilliant clubs and new ones are popping up all the time. Our current favorite is Cocoon on the waterfront. Live bands as well as first-class DJs bring in a good crowd of bona fide beautiful people. Cocoon serves up food as well as cocktails. Dress code: smart casual.
Must-know info Cocoon is at Jalan Tun Fuad Stephens (open from dusk until late)
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