LESTER LEDESMA HAS YOUR ITINERARY FOR A FABULOUS THREE-ISLAND FORAY FROM CEBU WITH SCENIC DRIVES, YUMMY FOOD, AND WATERFALL FROLIC – ALL IN JUST THREE DAYS!
Pristine white sandy beaches, ancient baroque churches, costumed revelers with gaily-painted faces. Most of these classic images of the Philippines come from just one area - the Western Visayas region. In many ways, this cluster of islands at the archipelago’s center is a microcosm of the country. Credit this to its varied landscapes of both sand and slopes, all of it home to a people blessed with a good-natured character and a rich Hispanic heritage. There is much to experience on these happy isles, and good enough reasons to plan a weekend backpacking adventure. Fortunately, the Western Visayas is also just a short hop from Cebu Pacific’s namesake travel hub – Cebu has easy access to the cities of Bacolod, Iloilo and Kalibo. If you’re not up for the long, scenic route, hop on a plane – CEB flies to all three destinations.
day 1 Cebu To Bacolod
It only takes about 40 minutes to fly from Cebu to Negros Occidental, but the difference between these two cities belies their physical proximity. Unlike Cebu’s perennially buzzing runway, the airport at Bacolod houses an oftentimes sleepy terminal. This very laidback pace is evident everywhere in this province, where traffic on most days resembles that of a sleepy Sunday afternoon.
Visit “Paris” in Negros
The city of Silay, which is a mere 15-minute jeepney ride from the airport, has been called the “Paris of Negros” as it boasts a large collection of well-preserved heritage homes. Grand antiquated mansions line the streets of the centuries-old neighborhood which was once the center of a large and lucrative sugar industry. Stroll around the town plaza where most of the stately homes are nestled. And just a stone’s throw away, along Cinco de Noviembre street, stands the Balay Negrense Museum, the mansion owned by the son of the first sugar baron of Negros, Yves Leopold Germain Gaston. This fully-restored colonial-era mansion gives visitors a glimpse of the once-opulent Silaynon lifestyle. Balay Negrense Museum, Cinco de Noviembre Street, Silay City; tel: +63 34 714 7676, www.balaynegrense.com
Enjoy the sweet treats Enjoy the sweet treats
Pristine white sandy beaches, ancient baroque churches, costumed revelers with gaily-painted faces. Most of these classic images of the Philippines come from just one area - the Western Visayas region. In many ways, this cluster of islands at the archipelago’s center is a microcosm of the country. Credit this to its varied landscapes of both sand and slopes, all of it home to a people blessed with a good-natured character and a rich Hispanic heritage. There is much to experience on these happy isles, and good enough reasons to plan a weekend backpacking adventure. Fortunately, the Western Visayas is also just a short hop from Cebu Pacific’s namesake travel hub – Cebu has easy access to the cities of Bacolod, Iloilo and Kalibo. If you’re not up for the long, scenic route, hop on a plane – CEB flies to all three destinations.
Chase some waterfalls
After refueling, it’s time for a quick jungle adventure. At the foothills of the nearby Mount Mandalagan, about an hour’s drive from Silay, is the hillside village of Patag. Patag is the ideal jump-off point for those wishing to explore the falls on these slopes. From here, one can hike to any of a dozen waterfalls, the nearest one being an easy 40-minute trek away. Spend a few hours swimming in cool, cascading waters before heading back to Bacolod City.
Go food tripping in Bacolod City
Your first stop in Bacolod City should be Bob’s Restaurant – practically an institution after 40 years of serving up great food. Here you can savour a wide variety of mouth- wateringly tasty dishes, both western and local fare. Think of massive cheeseburgers as well as tender, juicy baby back ribs which the locals say are the best in town. For dessert, pop into Calea as sweet is the specialty here. Try the delectable Oreo cheesecake, among other scrumptious samplings. Bob’s Restaurant, 111 Lacson Street, Bacolod City; tel: +6334 441 1431. Calea Cake House, Lourdes Center, Lacson Street, Bacolod City
day 2 Bacolod to Iloilo
From Bacolod, catch a morning ferry ride to nearby Panay Island, where Iloilo City is. Remember to pack a pocketbook or your iPod to amuse you during the hour-and-a-half boat ride, but the trip is a scenic one, which includes among other great views, more than a glimpse of the picturesque resort isle Guimaras. Sea Angels operates an almost-hourly fast ferry service between Bacolod and Iloilo. For bookings, just contact Sea Angels, Muelle Loney Street, Iloilo City; tel: +6333 336 8290
Breakfast, Iloilo style
On your arrival at Iloilo, pop by for breakfast at Ted’s for a hearty bowl of piping hot lapaz batchoy – the city’s famous dish of noodles and beef in a tasty broth – before making your way to the city’s downtown area. Ted’s Lapaz Batchoy, La Sallette Building, Valerio Street, Iloilo City; tel: +6333 337 0804; www.tedslapazbatchoy.com
Ogle opulent homes
Iloilo is a much older Hiligaynon (the people from Western Visayas) heartland than Bacolod, evident in its numerous colonial-era churches and mansions. If you have an eye for antique architecture, head for the commercial area around J.M. Basa street. Here, the buildings of the old rich Ilonggo (term for the people of Iloilo) families still stand, proudly bearing Spanish, neo-classical and even art deco influences. The same applies to the nearby districts of Molo and Jaro, which both have sprawling plazas built around the centuries-old churches of St. Anne and Our Lady of Candles.
Weaves to woodcarvings
Iloilo City was once called “The Textile Capital of the Philippines” in the late 18th century, and it still churns out quality woven products. Not far from St. Anne’s Church, you can visit Asilo de Molo, an orphanage known for its production of handmade embroidery. So fine and so intricate is the workmanship of these pieces, they have been seen on Asia’s fashion runways. For souvenirs, drop by the Iloilo City market where you will find a large and almost bewildering assortment of native woven mats, baskets as well as all kinds of woodcarvings crafted from other parts of Iloilo province. Asilo de Molo, Avancena Street, Molo, Iloilo City
Sup on seafood and beer
Dine by the sea at Breakthrough Restaurant. Its come-as-you-are vibe is best enjoyed with fresh grilled seafood and ice cold bottles of San Miguel Beer.
day 3 Iloilo to Kalibo
Getting to Kalibo from Iloilo means a four-hour drive, so pack water and snacks. You’ll be making interesting stops along the way, so this will easily use up most of the day. Take the long scenic route – via the west coast – then make sure you have a window seat for a breathtaking view of the island’s notable destinations. The most affordable way to get there is to hail a van or bus with a “Kalibo” sign displayed on the windshield. Alternatively, you can also rent a vehicle. There are companies that offer self-drive car rental packages ranging from PHP5,000 to PHP 10,000, depending on the vehicle type and duration of the lease. Nissan Iloilo; tel: +63 33 320 4051 to 54
Visit antique Spanish churches
Stop by the campus town of Miag-Ao (about an hour’s ride by bus or jeepney from Iloilo), and you’ll see the University of the Philippines, Visayas as well as the grand Miag-Ao Church, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Built along baroque lines, the two-hundred-year-old fortress church boasts a charming Bas-relief facade adorned with Aztec motifs – a clear connection to the Philippines’ Spanish-Mexican heritage. Similarly, the church at the neighboring town of San Joaquin also features its own Bas-relief on the front wall, this time depicting the Spanish victory over the moors in the 1859 Battle of Tetuan.
Just board a jeepney marked with the town’s name. Any westbound jeepney passing thru here will definitely be able take you to the nearby San Joaquin.
Take a scenic ride to Kalibo
From San Joaquin, hop aboard a northbound commuter bus or van, and get comfy for the three-hour ride to Kalibo. By the time you get there, you will have passed the whole province of Antique, including stunning cliff-side views from the island’s northwestern edge. Enjoy a refreshing and invigorating massage inside one of the private cottages at Agzam Resort, then have a hearty lechon manok (roast chicken) lunch at La Nena’s. Such revitalising activities are sure to rev you up after the extended travel time. Agzam Resort, Liberato Road, Linabuan Norte, Kalibo; tel: +6336 268-6031, and La Nena’s, Roxas Avenue, Kalibo
Memorize the mangroves
At the 75-hectare Kalibo Bakhawan Eco-Park in Barangay New Buswang, bask in the quiet splendour of this replanted mangrove forest, and reflect on your lovely weekend before taking your evening flight back to Cebu.



