RJ LACSON UNMASKS BACOLOD’S LESSER-KNOWN GEMS PHOTOGRAPHY BY RJ LACSON

For 20 days in October, locals and tourists alike flock to Bacolod for the Masskara Festival. Established in 1980, the festival celebrated the hardships of the Negros people, its colorful revelry lifting their spirits during a time when the sugar industry was at a slump. Twenty eight years on, Masskara has evolved into one big party of dazzling floats, outlandish costumes, and a cast of thousands of dancers. Every block of the city becomes an explosion of music as scantily-clad beauties shimmy down spectator-lined streets, and well-heeled partygoers gather in liquor-stocked kiosks on the festival strip along the main highway of Lacson Street, a veritable mardi gras.

What tourists don’t know is that beyond the actual celebration on the streets are lesser-known yet dynamic attractions within the city. After all, Bacolod’s charms are not limited to its public vistas; they also reside in its private enclaves: the art-house galleries hidden in lackluster malls, the dazzling nightclubs shrouded behind unmarked black doors, and the restaurants that range from sparsely furnished to super swanky. Take time to explore these gems that only the Negrenses know about, and prepare to fall in love with a secret side of Bacolod’s Masskara.

FEAST ON MORE THAN JUST CHICKEN INASAL

There is more to Negrense cuisine than the ubiquitous chicken dish. There are restaurants located along the Masskara strip of the main highway with many options to satisfy every craving and suit every budget.

■ Family recipes

Located along the main street, Sweet Greens Garden Cafe (tel: +034 709 0958) serves native dishes infused with western flavors (pictured at right) which are inspired by owner Millie Kilayko’s family recipes. It is also probably the best spot from which to witness the electrical parade and other live events along the festival strip. Bob’s Restaurant (tel:+034 7091091) is a food institution in Bacolod, thanks to its home-cooked fare, such as the pork sate babe and the baby back ribs. 21 Restaurant (tel: +034 433 4096; www.21restaurant.com) is the place to go to for seafood, superb roasts and hearty meals, and its special Batchoy.

■ The freshest seafood

Skip the sterilized restaurants that masquerade as seafood places, and head for Pala-Pala. This is the wet market where the night’s fresh haul of fish, shrimp and crabs are brought to straight from the fishing boats. Watch the boats dock here, then visit the many stalls displaying the evening’s freshest catch, and you’ll be spoilt for choice. Just make your selection and tell the stall attendants how you want it cooked.

■ World flavors

Enriching the city’s cosmopolitan restaurant vibe are Café Uma and Trattoria Uma (tel: +034 432 3853). Both owned by chef Juan Miguel Gaston, each boasts a unique menu.
For eclectic tastebuds, try the Asian-Aussie fusion dishes at the café – grilled panini sandwiches and hearty salads. For authentic Italian foodies, the ravioli at the trattoria is to die for. Do order a glass or two of Chilean or Australian wine from the cellar. Mu Shu (tel: 034 435 0972) is a cozy oriental den that serves fusion and modern Asian cuisine to a young and hip crowd. KGB (tel: +034 433 7896), which stands for Korean Grill Bar, is a haven for artists and personalities who prefer to shun the festival’s noise and create their own. Bumping into the owner Jane Benedicto is also a great experience that should not to be missed!

MASSKARA FESTIVAL 2008 HIGHLIGHTS

✽ Movie screening at SM Cinema Bacolod

Catch Namets (www.nametsmovie.com), a 2008 Cinemalaya Film entry, about Negros with Hiligaynon dialogue and English subtitles. The movie stars Angel Jacob, Christian Vazquez and Peque Gallaga.

✽ MassKara Year II along Lacson Street

On October 17, 18 and 19, get ready as the area from 5th Street to North Drive is transformed into one big party strip, with concerts, parades, and a food festival.

✽ The Search for Masskara Queen

This event will be split into four major segments to be held on different dates. The coronation night will be held at the open air venue at the Electric Masskara along Lacson Street. The new queen and her court, dressed in their festival costumes, will join the Countdown to Charter Day party at City Hall.

✽ Countdown to Charter Day

Join a giant street party on Lacson Street as the city keeps vigil until the 70th year celebration. Seventy seconds to midnight, the party counts down to 12 midnight, and then sings happy birthday to Bacolod amid fireworks and music.

✽ Magica Masskara at the Orange Gallery

Now on its 4th year, this visual arts exhibit – spearheaded by the city’s internationally-known artists – presents an impressive array of art based on the theme of magical masks.

VISIT HISTORICAL SITES

Five minutes away from Bacolod, Talisay city boasts two historical structures that represent the opulence of Negrense architecture.

■ The Ruins Built by sugar baron Don Mariano Ledesma Lacson in the early 1900’s in honor of his Portuguese wife Maria Braga, this grandiose structure stands amidst a vast cane field.

The mansion was burned down by American troops to prevent the Japanese imperial forces from occupying it during World War II, yet vestiges of its elegant Italianate architectural style remain. Best time to swing by is in the late afternoons, right before the sun sets, tel: +63917 832 6003; email: lacson_mansion@yahoo.com.ph

■ Balay ni Tana Dicang This ancestral home, reopened last month, may not be as famous as Balay Negrense, but features art, furniture, antiques and religious images dating back to the 17th century. 36 Rizal Street, Talisay City; tel: +034 495 2104; email: campoman@yahoo.com

ART IN THE CITY

■ The Orange Gallery Charlie Co, the CCP 13th Artist Awardee and a prominent painter owns this gallery, which often has comedy improv teams and bands perform at its various art exhibit openings. For more info, contact Carmel at tel: +63920 541 0898.

NATURE TRIPS

■ Lakawon Island Off the coast of Cadiz City, it’s just a 45-minute drive from Bacolod City. Some call it Boracay without the madness. To reserve, call tel: +034 433 0808. ■ Get high Head for Salvador Benedicto and Mt. Patag in Silay, minutes from the city, and inhale fresh mountain air. Mount Kanlaon is ideal for trekkers and nature lovers, and is surrounded by seven waterfalls.

NIGHTLIFE CHEATSHEET

Party hardy in Bacolod with our dusk till dawn guide…

6pm Catch the sunset by The Ruins with a glass of wine. This is the best time to take great photos.

7pm Visit Orange Gallery and check out the Magica Exhibit, or join the wild celebration at the plaza. Get ready for visual feasts amid a stomping party atmosphere. Gallery open until 9pm, Lopues Annex, Mandalagan.

8pm Enjoy a sumptuous dinner at any of Bacolod’s fine restaurants.

10pm Time to hit the Masskara Strip along the main highway. Get ready for the electrical parades, concerts and other night activities. Don’t forget to dance along!

11pm Bar hopping time! Sorrento and May fair centers have watering holes to start you off with cocktails to give you a party buzz. Hie off to Pepe’s (tel: +034 433 2905) for frozen margaritas.

12mn Head to KGB Bar on 23rd street for live music, tipple and snacks. You might spot celebs like film director Peque Gallaga, enjoying a drink here.

1am Hit the dance floor at Breizh and Mu Shu, where special guest DJs spin during weekends.

2am Crash in a sleek club lounge that only opens during Masskara season – Club North at Ayala North Point, Talisay City. It is the venue for the festival’s after-party, where revelry can last until dawn.

3am Grab early morning grub at Business Inn for great kansi (bone marrow soup) or dig into a plate of chicken inasal in Manokan.

5am Grab a latte at Sugarland hotel’s restaurant lobby called Twist.

6am Drive to Lakawon Island and bask in the beauty of the early morning surf and catch the sunrise!