GEMMA PRICE GEMMA PRICE SPILLS THE BEANS SPILLS THE BEANS ON THE BEST CAFÉ ON THE BEST CAFÉ EXPERIENCES YOU EXPERIENCES YOU CAN GET IN HO CHI CAN GET IN HO CHI MINH. PHOTOGRAPHY MINH. PHOTOGRAPHY BY RICO GONZALES BY RICO GONZALES
Acomfy spot to lounge in or perhaps a plush armchair. Sips from a steaming cup of brew while you watch the world pass from over the top of a crisply folded newspaper. A regular haunt where you can dump your shopping bags and catch up on the latest gossip with friends. These stereotypes of café culture may evoke images of chic sophisticates meeting to talk business or flirt coquettishly over lattes or cappucinos. But in Ho Chi Minh, enjoying cà phê, or coffee, is as quintessentially Vietnamese as the traditional conical hat.
That’s why cafés line every street — from street-side kiosks to sleek up-market haunts for the well-heeled urbanite — and the black elixir forms the social backbone of the city. This is hardly surprising, as coffee is the world’s most widely traded commodity after petroleum, and Vietnam happens to be second only to Brazil as the largest coffee producer in the world.
A LITTLE CÀ PHÊ HISTORY
French colonists brought the first coffee seedlings to Vietnam’s central highlands in the late 19th century, upon realizing the topography and the humid equatorial climate provided ideal conditions for its cultivation. In fact, the country was a major exporter of coffee beans until the escalation of the Vietnam War halted production. Vietnam crept into the world market again in the early 1980s, and once the United States — the world’s largest importer of coffee — lifted trade sanctions on the country in 1995, coffee production exploded.
Vietnam produces Robusta predominantly, which, in comparison to the other principal variety, Arabica, actually contains twice the amount of caffeine and is quite possibly the fuel for HCMC’s 24/7 frenetic energy.
THE CITY’S BEST CUPPAS
A shot of the thick, hot syrup certainly provides a pep-up, but the days of choosing between cà phê (black coffee) or cà phê sua (black coffee with sweetened condensed milk) are long gone. Menus now offer an ever-expanding range of exotic takes on the humble cup, and Ho Chi Minh has a wealth of slick, decadent hideaways for the discerning drinker to get their caffeine fix. Right here, we rate the best coffee experiences to go for when you’re in the city.
BEST LOCAL BEANS
Trung Nguyen bills itself as Vietnam’s premier coffee company, selling its specialty beans around the city. This spot opposite the exclusive Diamond Plaza department store in the center of town is a good spot to sup. Dotted with fairy lights and leafy tropical plants, the café also has a menu that’s highly recommended — from Culi Robusta (a sharp, black Vietnamese cup) to Passiona (a light and fragrant brew with chocolate tones).
But do try the Legendee, a brew made from a weasel’s undigested coffee beans snack – painstakingly washed and sundried, of course! Baristas swear the process enhances the flavor of the beans. And a strainer-full of this delicacy only goes for VND24,000 (PHP69.52) or VND26,000 (PHP75.31) with milk. 7 Nguyen Van Chiem, District 1, tel: +84 (08 3) 825 8531
BEST FOR PEOPLE WATCHING
Nestled alongside Gucci and Louis Vuitton in one of HCMCs most coveted postal codes, up-market Mojo serves up Aroma brand coffee in true continental style. Business people arrive for breakfast meetings as the city gets going, and throughout the day and evening there’s a steady trickle of tourists and affluent locals who are attracted by Mojo’s rich, chocolate brown sofas, warm lighting and the fragrance of freshly ground Aroma coffee. Served in hand-warming earthenware mugs and cups, coffee is enjoyed Western-style and is complemented by a counter full of freshly baked cakes and muffins. The décor here is slick and classy, and the wicker terrace tables are perfectly positioned for people watching. For the ultimate coffee indulgence, you must try the Rumba Frappe — it’s made with Aroma espresso coffee, fresh milk, whipped cream swirled with sugar syrup, chocolate chips and chocolate sauce. It’s a wonderful pick-me-up for VND75,150 (PHP216.44). If you have a sweet tooth, this definitely fits the bill as the most indulgent way to stop time, enjoy quality coffee and watch the wonderful world as it passes by. 88 Dong Khoi, tel:+84 (08 3) 827 2828
BEST CORPORATE CUP
Starbucks’s mushroom-like growth in the USA inspired Vietnam-born David Thai to come back to his home country and break into coffee. Since opening his first café in 2002, Highlands Coffee has grown to become Vietnam’s answer to the ubiquitous American coffee franchise. Highlands strives to provide “the best of east and west,” offering traditional Vietnamese-style coffee alongside international espresso blends that locals have come to love. Branches are modern and comfortable, styled in sleek red and black. This particular outlet in central Lam Son Square is a popular al fresco haunt of locals and expats alike. Surrounded by two of Ho Chi Minh’s most upscale hotels and the colonial grandeur of the opera house, the smart wooden decking, red awning and lanterns and garden party-style furniture makes this the perfect place to meet friends, colleagues or a even to impress a date. Try a typical Vietnamese drip filter coffee for VND22,000 (PHP63.51), or cool off with a chic caramel café freeze for VND59,000 (PHP170.34). 7 Cong Truong, Lam Son Square, tel: 08 3 822 5017, www.highlandscoffee.com.vn
MOST INTIMATE COFFEE EXPERIENCE
A piping hot cup of coffee isn’t so appealing when it’s hitting 37˚C in the city, so Vietnamese coffee is traditionally served iced. One of the best places to beat the heat with a cà phê sua dá (iced milk coffee) is Nirvana Café, a warren of cubbyhole-like rooms amid greenery and water features. With strings of lamps, oil lanterns and wood panels, this intimate café evokes the traditional feudal style of the central coast. The coffee is also a big draw – both Arabica and Robusta beans are roasted together in a traditional hand-made earthenware oven for a velvety-smooth texture and distinctive aroma. Not as strong as the stuff on the street, but full-bodied and smooth. Here, a cup of cà phê costs VND22,000 (PHP63.34). Or indulge in a Cà phê Rhum for VND25,000 (PHP71.98). 37 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, tel: +84 (08 3) 829 5839
MOST VIVACIOUS CUP
In a culture where excessive alcohol consumption (especially by women) is by and large frowned upon, coffee shops make up the city’s social backbone, and Windows Café is one of the best places to catch the city’s bright young things. Situated between the Reunification Palace and the Notre Dame cathedral, this expansive four-storey structure captures contemporary youthful Vietnamese style — a jumble of bright colors and lights, natural features and loud music. Try a simple espresso for VND35,000 (PHP100.79), or sample a boozy tipple such as Cà phê Havana or Cà phê Bacardi for VND50,000 (PHP.144) 12 Alexandre de Rhodes, tel:+84 (08 3) 823 8408
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