AGNES PRIETO AGNES PRIETO TAKES YOU AWAY FROM THE BRIGHT LIGHTS AND INTO THE CITY’S POCKETS OF ART AND CULTURE. PHOTOGRAPHY BY SIMON WONG
So much has been said and written about Macau being the “Las Vegas of the East”. But long before Stanley Ho and Steve Wynn turned the ex-Portuguese colony into the gamblers’ playground that it is today, it drew romantics, poets, artists and writers to its shores.
WAVES OF CULTURE
The travelers and traders of the 19th century were charmed by the quaint cobbled streets and baroque mansions reminiscent of old Europe but set within an Asian setting. The trade winds blew in a fusion of nationalities, customs and cuisine into these tiny islands where they coexisted with a flourishing business and art scene. Artists came on the heels of this wave, painting the beauty of the islands and eventually settling here and calling it home. As a result, art in Macau flourished and the city became a compelling conduit of culture. Your art stop: The Museum of Macau, Monte Fortress, Praceta do Museu de Macau, www.macaumuseum.gov.mo (near St Paul’s ruins). Open 10am to 6pm (tickets available up to 5.30pm). Closed on Mondays.
WAVES OF CULTURE
The travelers and traders of the 19th century were charmed by the quaint cobbled streets and baroque mansions reminiscent of old Europe but set within an Asian setting. The trade winds blew in a fusion of nationalities, customs and cuisine into these tiny islands where they coexisted with a flourishing business and art scene. Artists came on the heels of this wave, painting the beauty of the islands and eventually settling here and calling it home. As a result, art in Macau flourished and the city became a compelling conduit of culture.
Your art stop: The Museum of Macau, Monte Fortress, Praceta do Museu de Macau, www.macaumuseum.gov.mo (near St Paul’s ruins). Open 10am to 6pm (tickets available up to 5.30pm). Closed on Mondays.
ART IN THE PARK
Luis de Camoes, the most famous Portuguese writer of all time, lived in Macau in the 16th century during the period he was writing Os Lusiadas, the epic poem of Portugal.
He was quite a rogue, having fallen in love with the queen’s lady in waiting, and had gotten himself into many escapades which resulted in his exile to the east. After serving his sentence, he went on to serve the people as a government administrator in the city of Macau.
Your art stop: Drop by the Camoes Museum and the Camoes Square. Open 6am to 11.30pm daily.
EAST MEETS WEST
Contemporary art came about as a fusion of the works by resident foreign and Chinese artists who brought about a combination of cultural expression while highlighting their cultural identity. Russian artist George Vitalivech Smirnoff broke into the scene with his watercolors in the 1940s, even as Ung Vai Meng’s bold and definitive strokes began to redefine Chinese painting. Today, the world famous Russian painter Konstantin Bessmertny — known for his keen chronicles of the realities and fiction of life here — calls Macau his home. He speaks both Portuguese and English fluently and is known for his highly detailed narrative works written in the style of Peter Bruguel. The Macanese painters, Carlos Marreiros and Frederico George, present dynamic reflections on multi-ethnicity in action together with the works of Dennis Murrel, an Australian, Mio Pang Fei and Fernanda Dias among others.
Your art stop: All these artists have representation in the contemporary art exhibit at the Macau Museum of Art. Open 10am to 7pm. Closed on Mondays. For information on the latest exhibitions, log on to www.artmuseum.gov
BRAVE NEW ARTISTS
It is an exciting phase in China’s evolution; tremendous economic achievements have resulted in great affluence, and along with this, the winds of change are now blowing from within. Art has become the dynamic channel for expression of a swiftly changing culture. As a result, Macau’s art scene has never been this dynamic.
James Chu and Tong Chong are artists with Art for All Society (AFA), and are based at St Paul’s Fine Art, a creative watering hole located in front of St Paul’s ruins. Last August 2008, they curated a summer show called Winds of Cool, which showcased the works of 16 of Macau’s emerging new artists. “Chinese culture runs very deep, [with] an integration between the new and the old traditions reflecting what runs in our blood,” explains James. “You have to remember that this is not Las Vegas which sprouted out of the dessert. We have a lineage of culture.” As a result, these new art trends are not mere flashes in the pan but are rooted in ancient beliefs or conventions made new. These young talents are thankful for events like the Macau and the Venice biennale, which allow artists to compete regularly and highlight their works. And as Macau tourism continues to flourish, James can only hope for the city’s commercial enterprises to support the arts. “We expect the business sector to share some of their financial success with the artists through sales and cultural development programs,” he says.
Your art stop: St Paul’s Fine Art, Numbers 3/5/7 Travessa de S Paulo, Macau, www.stpaulscorner.com/cn/fineart.php
The enduring attraction of Macau for foreign artists can be explained by “its small town appeal, the cozy and simple lifestyle and the beauty of the place,” shares Tong. It helps that over the centuries, a culture base has been set and historic sites abound. The Ama Temple, a repository of living devotional art, continues to be a center for thousands of devotees. The Leal Senado in the town center, unique for its wavelike tiled floor, has trendy shops amid turn of the century architecture. The bridges that connect Taipa and Coloanne islands to Macau main in the serene waters of the port are strikingly beautiful. One lives with beauty in Macau, a guaranteed win for non-gamers and a jackpot without the risks for lovers of art.
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