JENNILYN Q SALVADOR JOURNEYS TO CATARMAN AND UNCOVERS THIS MYSTICAL PROVINCE’S SCINTILLATING SECRETS. PHOTOGRAPHY BY NELSON PETILLA
When you set foot on Northern Samar, you find yourself the star of your very own mythical tale. You are greeted by the sight of ethereal natural pools, awe-inspiring rock formations straight out of Lord of the Rings, not to mention stunning cliff side views and beaches that sparkle at dusk.
But as in every storybook epic, you must, like we did, take a journey with a guide to help you navigate challenging terrain to reach these secret places. Prepare to trek in jungles, travel mangroves, ride speeding motorcycles and drift on what may seem like endless boat rides to get to Northern Samar’s far territories. There are no Orcs or talking trees, but it is a definite adventure.
Behold the boulders of Biri
Spanning an area just shy of 8km long, Biri is located at the northernmost tip of Samar. This tiny coastal town runs along the length of the San Bernardino Strait, and close to the Pacific Ocean. Over time, the ferocious waves of these two grand bodies of water hew slabs of rock into massive, abstract-shaped works of art that have been around for thousands of years. These magnificent rock formations are so much a part of the island, they have become navigational landmarks nicknamed Magasang, Magsapad, Macadlao and Bil-at by locals. To get there, you take a 10-minute ride on a local habal-habal (motorcycle) from the port to Baranggay Progress.
You can stand upon the shore and admire Biri’s breathtaking boulders. The limestone formations go from gentle curves to sharp turns, and stand as silent testimonies to the artwork sculpted by the sea over time. People actually climb these rocks, but just looking at them can be an adventure in itself. At low tide, you can cross the waters to get to these majestic rocks on the other side. What may appear to be a deceptively simple task, however, can be just the opposite. Since Biri Island is near the mangrove reforestation area, the watery path is replete with sharp rocks veiled by moss, which can make you lose your balance and bruise or scratch yourself. Still, there is much to enjoy here: Catch glimpses of schools of fish, crabs swimming in tidepools, as well as flocks of herons converging alongside a nearby swamp.
Dock at Capul Island
Curious residents welcome you once you arrive on the shores of this island municipality. They speak Inabaknon, which is one of the Philippines’ remote and rare dialects.
Just an hour’s ride from the town of Allen is Capul Island, once a favorite guidepost for seafarers. During the Spanish era, galleons stopped over here en route to Manila, their final destination. Ships voyaging to Acapulco, Mexico anchored in Capul (which is short for Acapulco) before proceeding on the last leg of their journey back.
Perched proudly atop the island’s highest hill is the Faro de Isla Capul or Capul Lighthouse in San Luis. The 40ft-tall lighthouse, which stands 143ft above sea level, was first built by the Spaniards in 1896.
Engineers of the US Army completed its construction during the American regime. You’ll have to hop on a habal-habal to get there, but the trip is worth it because from this vantage point, you get the best view of the island. If you’re up there on a day with clear blue skies, you’ll spot the Naranjos Islands of Masbate from the south as well as Mount Bulusan.
Hop on a motorbike, then zip along Capul’s rugged landscape and whizz past rows of coconut trees to get to Capul Church. This striking remnant of 15th century architecture was built by Spanish priests, and later reconstructed after it had been raided by pirates. The church features a stone fortress that once protected the city from Moro attacks. Today, the 2.5m-high wall enriches the place’s mysterious charm.
Wade through ethereal pools
The Catubig River (called the main river by locals) traverses the entire municipality of Las Navas. It is the primary thoroughfare for traveling in the area and also houses two of the province’s best-kept secrets: Km 3, a subterranean natural pool, and Pinipisakan Falls, a multi-layered cascading attraction.
To get to these spots, take an hour-long boat ride and then enjoy a “short walk”, as the local guides describe it. This short walk is actually a 3km trek that involves negotiating very steep upward and downward slopes as well as narrow dirt roads — your group will have to walk single-file, one person at a time. Leave after lunch and you can get to Km 3 with time to catch the sunset. Even as nightfall encroaches, its waters shimmer in an inviting shade of aquamarine. “During the rainy season, we cannot see those,” your guide will tell you as he points to the rocks that partly shroud the water. “Everything is covered by rushing water.” If you arrive at Pinipisakan Falls at night (as we did), all you will hear are the sounds of the currents, and the only light available to you will be from dancing fireflies that illuminate the night sky.
Water worlds
In the municipalities of Victoria and San Antonio in Northern Samar, we chance upon long stretches of fine beach, areas that remain untouched by commerce or tourism. These are perfect spots to rest after the day’s strenuous activity. Make time for aimless beachcombing or a private picnic here — just be sure to pick up after yourself and keep the area litter-free.
While away the day and sit and listen to the sound of your own breathing against the soundtrack of the sea. For a dose of local life, take a 10-minute boat ride from the Victoria port to Bangon Falls. Here you will see residents going through the motions of daily life: washing their laundry and laying them out to dry on rocks beneath the sun.
It’s obvious that not many outsiders come to the quiet seaside town of San Antonio. Here, the people earn their livelihood from fishing and diving for seaweed. In Sitio Egang, about 15 minutes from Baranggay Dalupirit by motorbike, you will discover that some of the seaweed divers are children and teenagers. “It’s not that hard to get lato (seaweed),” says a smiling 16-year-old Rolly Salazar. “We only have to swim a few meters under the sea to find what we’re looking for.”
The task sounds almost too easy. But if there’s one thing you can learn on a trip to Northern Samar, it’s this: Once you’ve found what you’ve set out searching for, you forget how difficult it was to get there.
Bookmark This Post
