HO CHI MINH CITY’S DINING SCENE IS COMING INTO ITS OWN WITH SEVERAL RESTAURANTS WORTH SHOUTING ABOUT, REPORTS HELEN DALLEY. PHOTOGRAPHS BY NANA CHEN
Whether you’re looking for Vietnamese, Japanese, French or Spanish cuisine, the city formerly known as Saigon will tantalize your taste buds. You’ll have a lot to choose from, considering the new international restaurants that have been springing up. Which is great as we’re sure you’ll be more than happy to take a break from the ubiquitous Pho noodle soup and Bánh mì, the city’s take on a sub.
CEPAGE
The décor at Cepage is decidedly minimal in this no-fuss lounge bar, the wine menu is anything but, with over 250 labels to sniff and slurp your way through. Forget cheap and cheerful New World wines: this is where Saigon’s oenophiles come to quaff rare French reds and obscure South African whites. At VND48,000 (PHP126) for a bottle of beer and the cheapest wine at VND90,000 (PHP237) a glass, it’s on the expensive side. The bite-size menu features Italian favorites such as mozzarella, tomato and basil and mushroom foccacia. As mopeds zoom past, smooth jazz plays, the perfect soundtrack to the setting. G/F Lancaster Building, 22 Le Than Ton Street, District 1, tel: +84 (8) 3823 8760, www.cepage.biz
ELBOW ROOM
One of the most promising new eateries to emerge in the last few months is a delightful bistro owned by Tristan Ngo, who is also the proprietor of one of the city’s most upscale restaurants — so upscale it has its own cigar bar, Skewers, of which World Café Asia host Bobby Chinn is a fan. With its exposed brick and white walls, Elbow Room is an American-style bistro that’s refreshingly unpretentious; it just oozes comfort. “It has to be comfortable as I’m here all day, and the food on the menu is what I want to eat,” says Ngo over a glass of Bridesmaid Semillon Sauvignon Blanc from the Napa Valley, a nod to his Californian roots.
On the menu? Simple Mediterranean dishes such as pan-fried feta, tomato, micro mix and olive oil to begin, and pan-fried salmon for the main course. Ngo tells us the all-day breakfast, served ‘til 10pm, is perennially popular, as are the Eggs Benedict and Breakfast Burrito. It’s also a good place to come for delicious pizza. 52 Pasteur Street, District 1, tel: +84 (8) 3821 4327, www.elbowroom.com.vn
ALIBI
This is an airy, down-to-earth space with a terrace brightened by red and white lanterns. It’s laid back enough so you can either check emails over coffee in the morning or cheer on the bands and toast DJs at night with a daiquiri. According to the manager, “We have plenty of music nights, from jazz to open mic, and DJ sessions to attract a younger clientele.” Alibi is a firm favorite with tourists and locals. Its sister company, French restaurant La Nicoise, is run by the same family. On the menu, find Sesame Tuna Salad, Lamb Moussaka, pizzas and Panna Cotta; in short, hearty Mediterranean fare. 11 Thai Van Lung, tel: +84 (8) 3822 3240
BYBLOS
Open since early 2008, Byblos is a roomy twofloor space brightened up by tourist posters of Lebanon depicting both snow-capped mountains and golden beaches. The menu is all Halal, imported and prepared by Lebanese chef Jalal Amaneddine, who recommends the Byblos Mezze Platter, Lamb Ouzi (baked lamb and spiced rice) or that old Lebanese favorite, a juicy chicken kebab. Regular customers can call ahead and order what they want. Byblos is the only Lebanese restaurant in the city, with both a Lebanese owner and chef. Next on the plan is a Lebanese-style café. Watch out for it. 11 Ngo Duc Ke Street, District 1, tel: +8 (8) 3825 7781, www.byblos.com.vn
MIAMI
Miami’s Geoffrey Deetz, an expat from California, brings in a slice of the States. “We are the only one that offers real American food, and we have our own bakery and a diverse number of breads. We cater to anyone who understands quality and the difference between home-made and store-bought.” Asked for his view on the Saigon dining scene, Deetz is surprisingly frank. “The food scene will struggle until there is a better appreciation for new direction and creativity. This was a very important part of the birth and success of California cuisine, which allowed for seasoned chefs to grow and reinvent their food.” Deetz plans for the restaurant to be a training facility and a central distribution area for specialty foods, baked goods and beverages. 13 Phan Van Dat, District 1, tel: +84 (8) 829 2055
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