CARE FOR FRENCH CUISINE IN RED-LIGHT PHAT PONG OR CONTRACEPTIVES ON YOUR PLATE? ANA SANTOS DINES, BANGKOK STYLE.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY AUSTIN BUSH
Smile takes a bite of “The Big Mango,” as Bangkok is aptly nicknamed, and takes you to five restaurants that are known for their charm and quirky appeal. So whether you’re a discriminating diner, an adventurous tourist or just a hungry traveler, you’re sure to find a restaurant to suit your taste in this city that probably also never sleeps, but undoubtedly knows how to eat!
SAFE SEX AND SPICE
The restaurant’s tagline, “Our food is guaranteed not to cause pregnancy,” isn’t exactly one that will whet your appetite, but it does grab your attention. Cabbages & Condoms’ founder, Mechai Viravaidya, used to be the country’s Minister of Health. His passion for promoting family planning during his term must have been legendary, as locals joke that the other Thai word for condom is “Mechai.” Today, Cabbages & Condoms is a popular tourist attraction and the ex-health minister’s platform for two things: he advocates eating your vegetables as well as practicing safe sex. Which is why you’ll find condoms everywhere you go: at the entrance, life-sized mannequins are creatively “clothed” in fashions formed with colorful rubbers and birth control pills. Floral decorations are also artfully made using dried-up condoms, allowing patrons to literally stop and smell the flowers.
Some entreés on the menu reinforce the theme, such as the spicy condom salad, which is really just a spicy Thai salad with a sexy name. The fried Shanghai noodles with herbs taste wonderful, while mains like the deep-fried chicken wrapped in fragrant pandanus leaves is an all-time classic. By the end of your meal, condoms are inserted in the billfold with your change. And at the exit, just in case you still haven’t gotten the message, you’ll find a dispenser that reflects Mechai’s sense of humor and politics: you pick from “Republican” or “Democrat” sized condoms. Restaurant proceeds are used to support the activities of the Population and Community Development Association (PDA), which provides services such as free vasectomies for the rural poor of Bangkok. 6 Soi 12, Sukhumvit Road, tel: +66 (02) 229 4610, www.pda.or.th/restaurant/about.asp
CROSS-CULTURAL INFLUENCES
In ancient times, caravansaries along the famed Silk Route of trade and commerce functioned as a traditional meeting place where weary travelers could eat and rest while en route to their next destination. They were a home away from home for nomads.
That same welcoming atmosphere in a cross-cultural setting is recreated at the Face Bar. The three-level teak wood structure surrounded with lush greenery is tastefully filled with cultural artifacts from around the region. Raised Chinese beds filled with soft pillows invite you to make yourself at home in this restaurant cum spa.
There are three restaurants within the Face Bar to satisfy a cross-cultural palate. There is Lan Na (which means “many rice fields”), which serves Thai cuisine; Hazara, the Indian restaurant named after an Afghan tribe; and the newest one, Misaki, a Japanese sushi bar.
If you feel like eating Japanese, try Misaki’s different sushi combinations made from fish flown in from Japan. But if it’s Indian food that catches your fancy, Hazara’s Bahra Kebab or New Zealand lamb flavored with yogurt and spices is a must. And cashew nut chicken breast with oyster sauce and dried chilli is a Lan Na favorite.
Most of the wine-producing countries are represented in the Face Bar’s extensive wine list, so you’re sure to find the right bottle to pair with your chosen cuisine.
End your meal with a traditional Thai massage from The Spa — a perfect way to make your own modern-day impressions of caravansaries. Soi 38 Sukhumvit Road, tel: +66 (71) 360 489, bangkok@facebars.com, www.facebars.com
AUTHENTIC THAI BITES
One way to check if a restaurant serves authentic native cuisine is to see if the locals eat there. At Oam Thong Thai Cuisine, the Thai people filling the tables is proof that you’ve come to the right place for sumptuous Siamese cooking. For starters, sample the different spring rolls and rich peanut-flavored satays (the hor d’oeuvres Oam Thong), or feast on the fried-to-crispy perfection shrimp patties made for dipping in honey sauce. Even local government officials and socialites may be seen occasionally dining at Oam Thong.
Other traditional Thai dishes are deliciously photographed in the menu, which may seem overwhelming, but the service attendants can be called on to make suggestions and answer your questions even before you ask them. Don’t be surprised if the manager approaches you mid-meal to ensure your satisfaction.
Ask him what differentiates Oam Thong from other Thai restaurants because you can’t exactly pinpoint it, and a cryptic Thai grin along with a philosophical explanation may be your reply. “Every dish is a harmonious joining of flavors; sweet, spicy, sour, salty and even bitter — symbolizing human life, which is laced with emotions.”
If the proof of the pie is in the pudding, in Oam Thong’s case, the proof is in the mango sticky rice, the all-time favorite Thai dessert which is one of the restuarant’s bestsellers. Sukhumvit Soi 33, www.oamthong.com
A FRENCH BRASSERIE IN PHAT PONG
Don’t let the bikini-clad girls in the bar next door fool (or distract) you — Le Bouchon is actually a place where you can eat and eat well. This much-loved French restaurant, seemingly out of place in the notorious Phat Pong red-light district, enjoys a popularity that borders on legendary mainly because its following is fueled by the best possible endorsement: word of mouth.
Ask anyone from the French-European community what restaurant you should try while in Bangkok, and they will direct you to Le Bouchon, and describe their own dining experience there with words of great affection and fondness. Just one taste of Le Bouchon will tell you why.
Other French restaurants can give you the food, but nearly not the ambience of Le Bouchon. More of a French brasserie in character, the wine is as free flowing as the loud boisterous laughter and French music. None of the stiff French cuisine plated in petite portions — servings are huge; the Dordogne Salad with Goose Liver Terrine is a meal in itself for some. The sauces of dishes like escargot cooked in creamy spinach sauce are rich, thick and savory enough to make you want to rub your plate clean with your last morsel of bread. This is testament to Le Bouchon’s good-to-finger-licking-last-drop home-style cooking… just like Mama’s.
Le Bouchon’s prices, particularly for dishes like the best-selling steak tartare, are not exactly cheap. But if you’re craving a taste of Paris whether you’re a tourist or Parisian, it’s a small price to pay. Besides, the drinks are relatively more reasonably-priced compared to those in other bars along Phat Pong. 37/17 Path Pong 2 Soi 2 (near BTS Sala Daeng and MRT Silom), tel: +66 (22) 349 109
A VIEW TO A THRILL
Named after Alfred Hitchcock’s 1958 thriller, Vertigo Grill and Moon Bar literally takes dining to a whole new level at 61 storeys high. This former helipad on the rooftop of the Banyan Tree is one of the tallest al fresco restaurants in the Asia Pacific. Designed with sleek silver décor, escalated platforms and low walls, Vertigo offers an unobstructed 360˚ view of Bangkok. From this unique vantage point, the twinkling baubles of famous Bangkok landmarks such as the Grand Palace, Chao Phraya River, Wat Pho Temple, National Museum and the Emerald Buddha mesmerize and make you feel that you are sitting on top of the world, dining under a blanket of stars.
Vertigo’s sophistication doesn’t call for red carpet attire, but remember that a casual chic dress code is strictly enforced. Besides, you would want to be dressed for a different kind of stargazing if you happen to bump into world tennis champion Roger Federer or sultry songstress Norah Jones, just a couple of the many and varied celebrities that have been spotted at Vertigo.
Nix any impulse to be on a star stakeout and do take the time to enjoy Vertigo’s signature dishes. You would do well to start off with the marinated tuna tartare with salmon roe, which is sheer pleasure on the tongue. Follow that up with a spectacular main course of mouthwatering rosemary scented oven-roasted rack of lamb; each and every bite a sheer delight.
With a breathtaking view that is unparalleled, fine food not to mention, celebrity sightings — you’re sure to leave Vertigo starstruck and satisfied. 61st Floor, Banyan Tree, tel: +66 (02) 679 1200 (opening hours are subject to weather conditions).
Cebu Pacific flies to Bangkok from Clark three times weekly and daily from Manila. www.cebupacificair.com
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